NYFW AW19 CAAFD IMI-ImogenEvans

NYFW SS19

CAAFD

IMI by Imogen Evans

Verve Fashion

               IMI by Imogen Evans was one of the surprises of the A/W 2019 season. With models with their faces covered, they remind us of bandits, ninjas, prisoners and bank robbers. Imogen Evans is a talented fashion designer who demonstrates an ability to design, and articulate a view through her designs and her show that is paradoxical and poignant.

             Her collection, “Places We’ve Been Touched,” creates a line that is very strong in commentary, yet having an emphasis on affordability, sustainability and wearability.

            This seasons’s line carried mostly pieces that were comfortable cotton jersey or fleece back. Two items carried echos to an earlier collection that focused on deconstruction and reconstruction, but this line, and the title, had references Evans told Verve Fashion Magazine, “that was inspired by sexual assault survivors and their stories. The masks represented how sexual assault victims often feel silenced or can even be blackmailed into being silent. “   Imogen Evans is an Irish designer trained in Milan, Italy and has exploded on the design world with energy, excitement and a nimble ability to create the work she does at multiple levels.    There is the design level which reflects form, comfort and street savvy. There is the social comment level which is apparent in the styling and wit that marks a street style that is uniquely her own.

                  Pieces are sexual and daring, mocking and pointed. She creates cuts that deliberately reveal or pointedly conceal areas that society considers “erogenous.”

                 At the same time, in the complex labyrinth of today’s sexual world, the implications of sexiness, and sexuality, is not an invitation to assault. The same as a knife on a table is not an invitation to stab someone.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 CAAFD Thunyatorn

NYFW SS19

CAAFD

Thunyatorn

Verve Fashion

                  Thuryatorn Ng is a Connecticut-based designer focusing on traditional Thai designs using traditional textiles and fabrics found in the formal dress of Thailand. While the presented line showcased formal gowns accentuated with gold decorated trim, the ornate headpieces grabbed most of the attention. Based on animals from the Chinese zodiac, they were extravagant, bold and seemingly difficult to wear for the models. While other lines had models swooshing down to the end of the runway and back, the careful balanced walk of Thuryatorn models seemed solemn and stately.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 CAAFD Ruth Zabetta

NYFW SS19

CAAFD

Ruth Zabetta

Verve Fashion

                    Ruth Zabetta uses the opportunity of her small shows to present concise, focused lines that are feminine, fun and specifically aimed at a time and place. Her line using bold palm leaf and fern prints on slim line dresses, short skirts and full flouncy dresses. The fabric is substantial enough to hold shape, and her designs integrate well with the size of flora patterns on her materials. Varying shades of lush and muted greens allow for wear throughout warm weather months in relaxed atmospheres.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 CAAFD Sania Studio

NYFW SS19

CAAFD

Sania Studio

Verve Fashion

Pakistani Sania Maskatiya Spring/Summer 2019 line seems fast, easy and breezy for a warm summer night. The silhouettes are simple, loose dresses, long, kaftan-like pieces, kimono shapes and separates. But what stands out with these dresses is the matching of patterns across the body. Almost all the prints are symmetrical and consistent.

When the fabric is cut and sewn across a highly visible body part, the matching of fabric is difficult and when done well, almost seamless. Her best pieces seem natural and unassuming, but watching the flow across models’ bodies with her intricate patterns is impressive.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 CAAFD Patricia Wijaya

NYFW SS19

CAAFD

Patricia Wijaya

Verve Fashion

          The immediate impact of Patricia Wijaya’s collection is the geometry of form. V’s and inverted V’s, jackets with cuts and closures creating the geometry in the neckline, and at the waist, dresses with layers contrasted by color, as much as fabrication. Wijaya’s final pieces of emphasis were wide pyramids of fabric with a five foot diameter at the floor. The gold and deep blue color theme repeated throughout a small showing but curved cuts in unexpected places were echoed by other designers in this season.

   Patricia Wijaya is from Indonesia and her perspective of couture and elegance are prominently exhibited in the details and edging of many of her pieces.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 CAAFD Yufash

NYFW SS19

CAAFD

Yufash

Verve Fashion

                 Kadri Klampe is an Estonian designer designing Yufash out of the United Kingdom. Emphasizing beading, pattern, and fringe, the line has a lightness in the fabrics, even though most pieces are straight cut and squared off. But there are curious pieces that are colored like an iridescent oil slick, and then a piece with leaf print.    Klampe began to experiment with fabrication, and machine beaded painting applications, some of those items were show in the textured pieces and reflective designs.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 C+ Series

NYFW SS19 

C+ Series

Verve Fashion

             C+Series showing in New York is the new line of Liu Junting. Liu came from the film world where he had been a disciple of Li An. Previously designing C.T. Liu and Chaber C+, he split away to show in NYFW and in Shanghai with his Spring collection.

     Showing a sophisticated range of designs, beautiful fabrics, asymmetrical cuts and surprising details, this line is wearable while making a powerful statement. He claims to “advocate simple but not repetitive,” but each piece in the line is complex in design and construction while reaching for a relaxed feel of street wearability. Studied casualness is in the styling combinations, but the quality of fabrics, mix of fabrics, and unusual details (jackets and pants that seem gathered throughout the silhouette), belie both the thought and craftsmanship.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 F/FFFFF

NYFW SS19

F/FFFFF

Verve Fashion

                F/FFFFF is defined by the wit and satire of Zac Zeng. It is primarily a men’s line with some items thrown in for women. Borne of a sports company and driving for a street style, Zeng draws on his lifelong background of his family’s involvement with the garment industry in working with materials, creating combinations and unusual cuts.    A color palette that includes bright red, purple, yellow and green, seem more accessible to a Japanese audience that is exposed to manga and hentai characters than American and European streetwear audiences that are influenced by activities and athletic origins. American streetwear lines have political and geographical origins (Brooklyn, Bronx, NYC, Chicago, LA, Malcolm X, Standing Rock), but also ties to athletic wear, and work wear.

   Zeng’s long sleeved (to the floor), purple unitard with wide fishnet and echoing white backpack strappings, shiny red, green and purple rain jackets with matching shower caps, mocks a society of conformity, and complacency.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 Calvin Luo

NYFW SS19

Calvin Luo

Verve Fashion

                Calvin Luo presented a strong Spring/Summer line showcasing his work with beautiful fabrications. Integrating laces, wools, solids and transparencies, each piece works with a play of fabrics. There are pieces with strong geometric outlines and pieces that are rimmed with ruffles. Many of the dress, jacket and skirt silhouettes reflect a 50s or 70s shape (with the craftsmanship needed to carry off those patterns), while the overall feel is thoughtful and coherent.           

             I am not a fan of retro styling, but I admire the design, construction and his blend of colors is muted and elegant. Hey, I don’t like American muscle cars, but seeing a beautiful sample still leaves much to admire.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 CAAFD Anyi

NYFW SS19

CAAFD

Anyi

Verve Fashion

                   The Anyi line was created by Adriana and Laerke ten years ago by a desire to produce a sustainable line out of Peru, using Alpaca wools and Pima cottons. The small line is designed with body contouring knitwear using minimalist designs and deep, rich reds, yellows and blues or natural un-dyed fabrics. It is a beautiful, simple, small line using a Danish minimalist sensibility and sourced from fabrics and handcrafting methods native to Peru.

   They created a Anyi Certification program that certifies the various labor practices and competencies of harvesting, spinning , weaving and knitting competencies that go into the production of their work. Registered within the Peruvian Labor Ministry, they created labor and payment standards that are accepted as a standard in Peru.

    – Phillip Wong –