NYFW SS19 Marcel Ostertag

NYFW SS19

Marcel Ostertag

Verve Fashion

               Berlin-based designer, Marcel Ostertag, featured his vibrant gratitude to all of his inspirations in a collection he labeled as: “MUSE”. The line showed an array of elegance and sophistication sprinkled with disco elements gracing the runway with a representation of Ostertag’s close relationships and view of diversity.

 

Since his very first season, Ostertag held onto the value of sustainability and importance of avoiding niche trends. With everything being produced in Germany, he told Verve that his belief in having his clothes trickle down in generations, adorning every season and every age. reaches back to his family values. This season is no different in this aspect. Ostertag boasts his deeply rooted garments in an electric 70’s concerto versatile for any closet.

 

In the SS19 line, the German-born designer included ten male muses for the first time in twelve years to signify inclusion. The looks were showered with ruffles, sequins, florals, and glitter creating an extolling synergy alongside the similar female looks. His pieces show a lightness and air of fun that pervades like a Spring eternal.. Although the line followed the traditional Spring/Summer color palette, the movement of fabrics and inclusion of all color dynamics naturally encouraged a refreshing taste for all current and prospective muses.

 

– Leanna Franco –


NYFW SS19 Just In XX

NYFW SS19

Just In XX

Verve Fashion

   In my second season of viewing the work of Just In XX, I am amazed at the comment, complexity, wit of his ideas, and the beauty of his designs.

   Designed by Justin Yu-ying Chou, the Spring/Summer F@$HITION collection, shows a sophisticated humor integrated with superb design.      A stylistic icon creates a “hands on” look, with denim, camo, satins and transparencies as working material, he constructs, deconstructs, and meshes fabrics into single pieces.

   With a greater access to Western popular culture than some of his mainland Chinese counterparts (he is from Taiwan), his labels, accessories and “hands on” approach creates jeans comprised of multiple pairs of jeans. (This could look raggedy, but comes off as sexy and fascinating). He creates signage that comments (as opposed to brand dropping) in much the way Franco Moschino created commentary.

   A long oversize satin shirt-jacket shows the collection label printed over a Statue of Liberty illustration against a backdrop of New York. Since the collection label has @$ in it, is this a commentary on the American obsession with money? Earrings form the @ symbol.    The Just In XX line is high level streetwear. Pithy and eloquent in design, comment and taste, it should not be dismissed.

 – Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 Art Hearts Fashion Atelier Nicola D'Errico La Piacentini Pin-Up Stars

NYFW SS19

Art Hearts Fashion

Atelier Nicola D’Errico   La Piacentini   Pin-Up Stars

Verve Fashion

                    Nicola D’Errico presents a tight, small line that is classic in form. Long flowing floor length dresses with ostrich feather accents, white and beige bridesmaid dresses and bridal gowns. Yellows and muted earth tones populate the line with summer, while aqua and oceanic greens add color. A short baby blue mini-dress is framed by a flowing ostrich feather cape. There weren’t enough items to create a coherent seasonal collection, but each item is targeted for an occasion.

– Phillip Wong –

                 La Piacentini’s spring line has strong hints of Woodstock and gypsy roadshows. With quilted garments and peasant dresses there were layers of lace and ruffles to produce the feel of lightness and transparency. A few striking orange and blue prints were used as mini-dresses and long flowing cuts. Ruffles edged the openings of full-length dresses and slits allowed a freer movement

   The entire line had the feel of festivals on summer evenings.

– Phillip Wong –

           Italian company Pin-Up Stars showed a line of swimwear that has clean lines and prints in a season that has two themes: optical illusion prints, and African prints. Both themes have a 60s feel, but the lines of swimwear are current and elegant without being overt.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 Art Hearts Fashion Black Tape Project Candice Cuoco

NYFW SS19

Art Hearts Fashion

Black Tape Project   Candice Cuoco

Verve Fashion

           Joel Alvarez is the creator behind the Black Tape Project. This isn’t fashion as much as performance art. In 2008, he put electrical tape on a nude model. He discovered that tape hugs the body closer than any possible material that a model could wear. Working with models with great bodies, he creates patterns and illusory shapes that mimic swimwear while giving complete freedom of movement.    Alvarez only presents his shaping on one model in front of his audience, but it takes time and care to anticipate a form and as he finishes, other models show work that he’s finished.    Using adhesive tape pieces cut in simple triangle or diamond shapes in reflective bronze, gold, silver or black, the bodies are able to move dynamically. Much of Alvarez’s work is done in opulent club atmospheres in party locations around the world. But in a fashion context, it is fascinating to envision the flexibility of Black Tape.

– Phillip Wong –

             Candice Cuoco has an incredible eye for costume, design, and epic presentation. With models who understand the drama of her work, she works with fabrics that have texture, weight, transparency, and pushes the edges of compatibility to fit form that creates sexiness, flair that provides drama, and silhouette that distinguishes the elegance in so much of her work.

   This line simply uses lighter colors than her Autumn-Winter 2018 collection to tip a hat to a spring season.    In the work I’ve seen, I admire her using lace, metal clasps and sewn edges that explore clothing through historical contexts. Watching a Candice Cuoco presentation is seeing clothing as it was, as it is, and as it could be. Leather panels laced together work as medieval armor, flowing mermaid dresses with thigh high slits are reminders of a time of elegance and care.    She worries about construction and fit, and in her preparations, you can see dozens and hundreds of an item laid out for assembly on a patient model.    There are those who believe that women’s fashion diverted too far from wearability to the ridiculous, but we can also see that lack of imagination, drama and excitement sucked the soul out of fashion as we know it today.    Candice Cuoco reminds us drives us much further than the slip dress that only carries us to tomorrow.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 Art Hearts Fashion A Modo Mio Anthony Rubio Bad Sisters

NYFW SS19

Art Hearts Fashion

A Modo Mio   Anthony Rubio   Bad Sisters

Verve Fashion

                A Modo Mio is designed by Francesca Sesana. Her line is fun, fearless and female. A Colombian designer, her summer line is liberally sprinkled with denims, cottons, short skirts, long skirts and combinations. Flowing, bouncing shapes reflect a Latin American influence while camouflage and blue denim lend a street wearability to the woman running daily errands around town.    Francesca Sesana’s line is consistent and doesn’t seem to vary greatly between autumn and spring.

– Phillip Wong –

   Anthony Rubio designs for dogs. Really.

Flamboyant, Ostentatious, Unapologetic, he creates a show of items for little dogs, big dogs, active dogs and watchful dogs. Their walkers or carriers are dressed in long red carpet-type pieces with sequins, feathers, body hugging, transparent gowns, but Rubio’s emphasis is on the fabrication of canine capes, sweaters, jackets and shawls.    The models don’t always seem to know what to do with a pocket pooch with a skirt, or a curious puppy darting back and forth to audience members, but they manage well.

– Phillip Wong –

            Chilean sisters Melissa, Camila, Stephanie Byrt, are the Bad Sisters who created a fashion line as a canvas for their art. With beautiful water colors of lush florals, busy bees, and astronomical paintings, are on light flowing skirts, dresses and body suits, all are imprinted with their artistry.

   It is difficult to match intricate patterns and art on material that wraps around bodies and still can be seen and appreciated, so the choice of dress, or skirt, or sleek body suit, is done carefully with both the drape and flow, and imprint in mind. A light flowing black and white striped cape covers a black and white striped sexy shirt dress – but what is stunning is the floral imprint on thigh high boots that matches the inner lining of the cape.    Models covered in body hugging body suits that feel lush with bright floral designs.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 Art Hearts Fashion Fernando Alberto Atelier Topping Designs

NYFW SS19

Art Hearts Fashion

Fernando Alberto Atelier   Topping Designs

Verve Fashion

                      Fernando Alberto’s work always reminds me of his skill as a designer. The Spring/Summer 2019 line is beachwear and swimwear but nothing is thrown together without thought. His swimwear is simple, elegant with a touch of sexy. His covers and summer dresses are made with material that flows and swirls in a breeze, exposes what it wants to and hides what it needs to. While this seasonal offering is modest, the ease of wear and elegance of look, repeats the quality visible in his Autumn/Winter 2018 season.

– Phillip Wong –

                      The design of Topping Design is based on a philosophy and a craft. A belief that the women who wear his designs are the focus, and the colors are enthusiastic, while the shapes flatter without overreach. Duane Toppings materials are flowing, body hugging and not overly designed.

 

   The story is in Duane Topping himself and is typical of Art Hearts Fashion. They present designers who come from all backgrounds and perspectives. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn’t quite get there. Duane Topping was released from the U.S. Army in 2012 with PTSD. Living in Colorado and looking like a biker, he found haven in sewing and with his wife, Jamie, designs a line that shows his heart and connection with the women he designs for. Exuberance and a thirst for life comes from his connection with his models, his clothes and the Art Heart Fashion audience.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW SS19 Art Hearts Fashion 21 Reasons Why Argyle Grant Lila Nikole

NYFW SS19

Art Hearts Fashion

21 Reasons Why   Argyle Grant   Lila Nikole

Verve Fashion

                        Australian model Madeline Stuart started her 21 Reasons Why – line of women’s wear to reflect her belief in a loose flowing lightweight collection. The line is less significant in it’s design than in it’s inspiration. 21 Reasons Why is named for Madeline Stuart’s inspiring desire for us to better ourselves.

   As a model with Downs Syndrome, she worked to lose enough weight to model, and has appeared globally as a model and a spokesperson for charitable causes.

   Model Madeline Stuart has been associated with Art Hearts Fashion for a number of seasons, and Spring/Summer 2019 was the launch of her fashion line.

– Phillip Wong –

                 The Argyle Grant line for Spring/Summer 2019 is mens swimwear and surfwear line. Many of the prints were bananas and flamingos with paisley bright patterns. Argyle Grant has been producing a menswear line is mostly surf cuts with a few bikini pieces. Reflecting his emphasis on surf, sand and fun, he trotted out a branded board with his logo and while the line is small, the models kept a “dude” feel on a New York runway in September.

– Phillip Wong –

                    Miami-based Lila Nikole’s swimwear line is defined by bold patterns and bold shapes. Themed on Carnivale, presumably in the Caribbean and Latin America, the line features splashy psychedelic prints, tight, interesting one-piece body shapes and then bikinis, monokinis and keyholes.

                    Swimwear is created to play in water (which means staying on while coming out of the water) or showing off (working with people who work hard on their bodies). Some swimwear can do both, but creative swimwear focuses on allowing us to see enough of the body without being distracted by too much. Nikole’s line is creative with patterns and innovative with shape.

– Phillip Wong –


NYFW AW19 Group Shows - Council of Aspiring American Fashion Designers (CAAFD), Art Hearts, Fashion For Peace

NYFW AW 19

Group Shows

CAAFD /Art Hearts Fashion/Fashion For Peace/

Verve Fashion


NYFW SS19 Group Shows - Council of Aspiring American Fashion Designers (CAAFD), Art Hearts

NYFW SS 19

Group Shows

CAAFD /Art Hearts Fashion
 
 
 

Verve Fashion

CAAFD SS19 - Mouton Blanc

           Group Showings are curated and then presented by multiple designers. They are difficult to organize because there are so many moving pieces but are valuable to an industry that places emphasis on creativity and craftsmanship.

   Council of Aspiring American Fashion Designers (CAAFD) and Art Hearts Fashion are two organizations that consistently produce designers curated globally, and present surprising collections.

   The value of curated showings is under-appreciated by the industry because of a huge emphasis on “salability” of brands, but the huge expense of producing shows doesn’t allow designers who have the expense of producing their work, to be seen by either consumers or buyers.

   Buyers populate branded designers shows, both to be seen, and to network, while small designers struggle to be seen either in shows, advertising, or editorials.

– Phillip Wong –

Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Candice Cuoco
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Black Tape Project
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Atelier Nicola D'Errico
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - La Piacentini
CAAFD SS19 - Helena Bijaj-Larsen
CAAFD SS19 - Sania Studio
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Bad Sisters
CAAFD SS19 - Anyi
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Pin-Up Stars
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Anthony Rubio
CAAFD SS19 - Patricia Wijaya
CAAFD SS19 - Thunyatorn
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Burning Guitars
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Topping Designs
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - A Modo Mio
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - 21 Reasons Why
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Amal Azhari
CAAFD SS19 - Yufash
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Mister Triple X
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Lila Nikole
Art Hearts Fashion SS19 - Argyle Grant


NYFW SS19 Art Hearts Fashion Amal Azhari Burning Guitars Mister Triple X

NYAW18

Art Hearts Fashion

Amal Azhari   Burning Guitars   Mister Triple X

Verve Fashion

The Lebanese designer Amal Azhari line is vibrant with color and flowing with light robes, caftan-like shapes tied with cloth belts. Lace edging accentuated many of the pieces. Tassels and feathers added to the feeling of lightness.

   Azhari has been designing since 2005, initially designing bags and caftans. Her bag line were handmade and that use luxurious fabrics such as Habutai, Tabby, Cotta, Curcuma, Cypress and Cotton Silk, becoming in demand in the Middle Eastern and North African market.

   This runway show, featuring models wearing clothing based on traditional shapes, but unique fabric combinations and fezes, was Azhari’s first show in New York.

   Streetwear brand Burning Guitars presented a colorful line of long hoodie coverups, dresses and t-shirts. The colors and prints are the focal point with splashy cartoon and comic based visuals, bold animal prints and references to popular culture. Rockstar beach clothing goes to brunch.