Verve Fashion Magazine

Sun, Sand and Sequins

New York Fashion Week . . . Spring/Summer 2019

Verve Fashion

           In Spring/Summer 2019, the designers that presented inspired collections, thoughtful construction and artistry glowed like fireflies on a warm summer night. They lit up in surprising ways, in unexpected places and sometimes, you knew that it was going to happen.      It is always interesting to see designers evolve and shift from season to season, from collection to collection and while great designers can produce not-so-great work, the explore risks and keep coming back with something else.


   Calvin Luo, Marcel Ostertag, Just In XXX, Toaray Wang, Candice Cuoco produced strong lines with coherent themes, beautiful construction and vision. Group shows presented by Council of Aspiring American Designers (CAAFD) and Art Hearts Fashion, presented designer collections of greater variance. They give a platform for designers who can be superb, or excellent, or good, with varying degrees of depth to the lines. Because the designer has to invest in design, fabric, construction, labor, before flying to New York to even show, some of the lines are understandably small.

   Designers like Bad Sisters at Art Hearts Fashion, Helena Bajaj-Larsen and Mouton Blanc at the CAAFD stood out in small collections for their intricate work with fabrics combined with a vision of the body as a living canvas.


   The work of these organizers and producers of group shows is invaluable to the design community.


   Fashion industries in Britain, France, Italy, Germany, China, Japan, Korea, Turkey, are all built using these group show concepts. Verve Fashion Magazine is committed to seeing as much as possible and both photographing and commenting on the work of designers.   

   The fashion industry is an industry highly dependent on community. Like the production of a film which is dependent on craftspeople, artists, performers and marketing, the fashion industry is dependent on the fabricators, the quantities available, the craftspeople, the performer/presenters and the marketing.    While an industry can complain about money, price-point, distribution, and sales, the fact is, as emphasis presses more and more on the bottom line, the inspiration, creativity and element of risk is squeezed out of designers and leaves the wearing market uninspired.

   Unlike industries like cars and homes and movies, fashion and food are constant. They are purchased, loved, needed, wanted and desired by everyone. Everywhere, Always.    So the question is: what is the difference between a t-shirt and another shirt? If a dress, or top, or piece doesn’t inspire anything greater than absolute need, than uninspired audiences will opt for the cheapest, most basic, un-identifying option.


   All money looks the same. Maybe it comes from corrupt thieves, or from hard work, but ultimately, it looks the same. When we sell something, we can’t tell where the money comes from, but when we see how it is spent, we see patterns. Corrupt thieves waste money, people who work hard for their money, don’t. They recognize (actually they feel) the con, the lack of inspiration, feeling and desire the relationship. It IS their life. It relates to their lives. It gives their whole life meaning.

      People who buy brands easily, came onto their money easily. People who buy value, value the money they are spending. If we are seeking a market of easy spending, focusing on selling a brand, than we are ignoring a market that gradually turns their back on the lack of value.    I see Tommy Hilfiger branded t-shirts sold in souks in Marrakech, and branded items sold for a dolla on the street in Washington Heights. The value becomes the name alone, and designers who struggle to get a simple, but thoughtfully constructed dress, can’t either get it sold for value, or seen by anyone on the street.

– Phillip Wong –

NYFW SS19 - Marcel Ostertag
NYFW SS19 - Just In XX
NYFW SS19 - Calvin Luo
NYFW SS19 C+Series
NYFW SS19 - Pin-Up Stars
NYFW SS19 - La Piacentini
NYFW SS19 - Candice Cuoco
NYFW SS19 - Black Tape Project
NYFW SS19 - Anyi
NYFW SS19 - Yufash
NYFW SS19 Thunyatorn
NYFW SS19 - Patricia Wijaya
NYFW SS19 - A Modo Mio
NYFW SS19 - Topping Design
NYFW SS19 - Fernando Alberto Atelier
NYFW SS19 - 21 Reasons Why
NYFW SS19 - Argyle Grant
NYFW SS19 - Lila Nikole
NYFW SS19 - Mister Triple X
NYFW SS19 - Burning Guitars
NYFW SS19 - Amal Azhari
NYFW SS19 - Sania Studio
NYFW SS19 - Helena Bijaj-Larsen
NYFW SS19 - Bad Sisters
NYFW SS19 - Domingo Zapata
NYFW SS19 - Ruth Zabetta
NYFW SS19 - TaoRay Wang
NYFW SS19 - Mouton Blanc
NYFW SS19 - Atelier Nicola D'Errico