NYFW AW18

Irina Vitjaz

   Irina Vitjaz is an Austrian designer of Russian birth whose family had connections to the old Imperial Russian court. As many artisans during that period, her grandfather was a master tailor, and those family secrets, techniques and perspective of creating for the class is continued with this present day collection.

   While this a beautiful couture line has deep classic elements, Vitjaz use of gauze, tulle and lace to create a more modern seduction, pops up throughout the collection.

Her use of tight tailoring on jackets and a short silver dress with a high collared jacket reminds us that couture draping and detailed tailoring can produce relevant silhouettes.

   There are long gowns that make us think of traditional state dinners, but there are enough daring styling (her red pants and jacket with nothing underneath) to allow us to see Vitjaz in greater social circles.

   Each item is classically balanced and each detail has luxury elements remind us of Vitjaz’s classical roots. Gold or silver leafing on lace or other fabrics is a technique used heavily in the late 1700s and early 1800s and the use of silver on a see-through lace top, and gold leaf on the skirt of her final ballroom gown is spectacular.

                                                                                                    – Phillip Wong –