NYFW AW18 Art Hearts Fashion Mac Duggal Lulu Harazin Lisa Thon Weiling Chang

NYFW AW18

Art Hearts Fashion

Mac Duggal   Lulu Harazin  Lisa Thon  Weiling Chang

Mac Duggal once again showcased a collection worthy of a praise during the Art Heart NYFW 2018. Following his strong presence from last season, Mac Duggal integrated a message of inclusion and body positivity with his Spring/Summer 2018 collection. The runway was embellished with dresses elaborate in details and bold hues of different shades. There were asymmetric cuts and implementations of lace, beadings, fringe, and more perfectly accentuating the body of the models. This dramatization of details complemented the moody setting inside the gothic synagogue in which sat a sea of a star-studded audience. Amidst the crowd however, the combination of plus size models and regular models who carried the looks seemed to be the biggest stars of them all.

 

The variety is what first propelled Mac Duggal into becoming a fan favorite for wearable dresses. Dresses and models on the runway showed a fuse of positivity and regularity that should be more commonly implemented in current runways. With this collection pursuing a controversial topic, it seems that Mac Duggal successfully exhibited the many ways glamour can be displayed, not only on the dresses but also for the wearer.                                       -Leanna Franco-

A depiction of elegance and intricacy, Lulu Harazin brought a piece of her roots to stun the audience in Angel Orensanz Center. For her Spring/Summer 2018 collection, Lulu Harazin focused on haute couture and kaftans, which were a huge trend of the past. In the mid-19th century, kaftans emerged in full storm, taking over many Vogue covers with high-fashion houses such as Christian Dior and Halston. These adaptations heightened the interest in the exotic prints and embellishments as well as the loose-fitting shapes during the time. Fast forward to the 21st century, kaftans are back exuding the ultimate Bohemian grace with embellishments glistening with every step.

 

Lulu Harazin’s collection showcases these familiar styles while also putting haute couture on the forefront. Using fabrics and materials from all over the world, Harazin was able to create patterns of eastern influences to walk alongside western silhouettes in perfect harmony.

– Leanna Franco –

Lisa Thon is one of the established fashion designers designing in Puerto Rico (Stella Nolasco is another), but Thon has been showing in New York since 2006 and she was well received with her hippie (or bohemian) prints and oversized hats giving an island sensibility to her collection.

  

   This collection was about comfort and flow, reflecting a culture of island rather than the ice of winter. Some of the more interesting embellishments were long fringe coming from the shoulders of one dress, print belts on solid colored dresses, and dresses and tops created from ties sewn together in strips.

Bright colored faux fur coats layered over gauzy, light dresses and brightly patterned one piece shapes. Easy to see, easy to wear, and well received.  

 

– Phillip Wong –

  

The Weiling Chang collection at Art Hearts is beautifully designed but a curious mix. All pieces had an elegance, but classic business wear, along with evening, jumpers, strappy tops with a suggestion of fetish, were exhibited with motorcycle jackets, trench coats, and waist coats.

   While the placement of all these pieces was curious, the styling works with each outfit and it struck me that small designers are only able to show a piece or two at a time – while their creativity and thoughtfulness of design wants to do much more. 

 

– Phillip Wong –


Trussardi FW18

Trussardi FW18

In the Trussardi clothing collection, each piece become elements: the oversize coat constructed to perfection, the trousers with a wide, perfect line, the skirt with a split, the essential knitwear, the sartorial blazer, the biker jacket. And the leather: of the highest quality, hand-made or glittery, brightened with prints or woven into tartan patterns. And again embellished with markings like imaginary punctuation.

This is family as tribe. The fast modernity of Milan, without nostalgia. And the cult of Italian savoir-faire, from the quality of the materials to the attitude of doing everything well and with style. Multi-ethnic, unrestrained by function or role, the Trussardi Fall Winter 2018/19 Men’s and Women’s Collection is writing a new aesthetic language dedicated to an urban gang of guys and girls, fictional and yet real, caught between tradition and contemporary revolutions.

   The silhouettes are vertical, large, often highlighting the waist with an air of solemnity. The lines are fluid, fast and dynamic. It is a style that brings together agility and sophistication, references from yesterday’s wardrobe and the disenchanted attitude of today’s metropolitan tribes.


Faith Connexion - Paris

Faith Connexion – Paris

Faith Connexion is a Paris-based label with a New York flagship store. Faith Connexion calls themselves a creative tribe with a multitude of inspirations. A laboratory of young talent, experimenting in art, fashion and street culture, the tribe captures  and  elegantly  puts  forward  the  authenticity  attitude  of the  street. The collective sees itself as built up organically through layered encounters, unafraid to integrate diverse aesthetic perspectives. Street meets glamour, with graffiti artists spray painting jackets, jeans and sweatshirts, inspiration born from the walls of vacant lots. The authentic luxury of a graffiti painted-to-measure. The story unfolds, evolves and deepens with time, unchained from the traditional cycles of fashion.

This season’s byword is clear: recycle / re-use. And by literally recycling this universal theme, the Faith Connexion collective undertakes a witty exploration of dress codes with a sharp sense of parody.  The brand’s iconic pieces are thus reinterpreted through this new lens.

 

The message runs through the collection like a common thread, in the form of a red tuxedo stripe with black lettering. The band looks equally at home on an elegant flare trouser, on a blue jogger, and of course the brand’s indispensable wide-leg sequined trouser.  It reprints itself on the fantastic modular linings of military parkas and work wear pieces. In printed fake fur or gold sequins, the linings are reversible, offering a view of quilted interiors printed with the message “reusable,” and a space for the owner’s name. Versatility is the key, with each part detaching from the whole, allowing each wearer to compose his own garment at will.

 

The Faith Connexion flagship store is at 27 Mercer St, New York, NY 10013 and at www.faithconnexion.com/


Alexa Chung - "Virginia" line

Alexa Chung

“Virginia” Collection

This March, ALEXACHUNG releases the fourth collection titled Virginia. Inspired by the Bloomsbury Group, the collection features 100 Spring appropriate pieces across ready-to-wear, jewellery and shoes, all channelling the playful effervescence synonymous with the brand.

“This season’s inspiration came from writers, painters and sculptors whose lives are filled with created works of beauty. Our muse works in her worn jeans, old t-shirts, borrowed shorts; painting, creating, travelling, loving. Pay close attention to the piping, frills, embroidery and all of the Charleston

inspired prints that make up this collection”

Virginia is a celebration of art, craftsmanship, and self-expression. Drawing inspiration from the works of British painters Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell, the sister of Virginia Woolf, the collection evokes a modernist intellectual tone. Both Bell and Grant were pivotal players in 20th Century painting and members of the infamous ‘Bloomsbury Group, a group of artists, poets, philosophers and writers. Throughout, Chung explores Charleston, the country haven and getaway for the group.

The collection is a play between unadulterated comfort and the austere mood of the early 1900’s. True to the lifestyle of the artistic set, oversized ruffle collars, leisurely luxe jacquard pyjamas and sumptuous paisley contrast the loose smock dresses, dungarees and paint splattered denim.

Alexa Chung’s eponymous brand ALEXACHUNG launched in May 2017.

The brand produces four seasonal collections per year and sits within the advanced contemporary category. Unfettered by the traditional fashion cycle, each collection is available at the turn of the season.

ALEXACHUNG embodies her personality and intuitive sense of style, with the principle of making great clothes for great women. The brand curates its collections in a playfully subversive way; bending long established rules of silhouette, proportion and design.

Its diverse offering of daywear, evening-wear, denim, shoes and jewellery is available in over 100 stockists worldwide and online. The brands e-commerce platform stocks the collection as well as exclusive pieces. The company designs, markets and manages distribution in-house at their headquarters in London.


NYFW AW18 Irina Vitjaz

NYFW AW18

Irina Vitjaz

   Irina Vitjaz is an Austrian designer of Russian birth whose family had connections to the old Imperial Russian court. As many artisans during that period, her grandfather was a master tailor, and those family secrets, techniques and perspective of creating for the class is continued with this present day collection.

   While this a beautiful couture line has deep classic elements, Vitjaz use of gauze, tulle and lace to create a more modern seduction, pops up throughout the collection.

Her use of tight tailoring on jackets and a short silver dress with a high collared jacket reminds us that couture draping and detailed tailoring can produce relevant silhouettes.

   There are long gowns that make us think of traditional state dinners, but there are enough daring styling (her red pants and jacket with nothing underneath) to allow us to see Vitjaz in greater social circles.

   Each item is classically balanced and each detail has luxury elements remind us of Vitjaz’s classical roots. Gold or silver leafing on lace or other fabrics is a technique used heavily in the late 1700s and early 1800s and the use of silver on a see-through lace top, and gold leaf on the skirt of her final ballroom gown is spectacular.

                                                                                                    – Phillip Wong –