NYFW AW18

Just In XX

    Just In XX is a streetwear collection without apology. When I initially saw the collection, I thought to myself that he was trying too hard to go over the top. But looking over my photos of the collection, and recollecting the stream of unrelenting, surprising combinations and items – it reminded me of recently seeing Blade Runner 2049, and the original Blade Runner. A coherent vision of a new and different world.

   This is a street world that is comprised of statements, slogans and beauty. The calligraphy and painted canvases are refined and purposeful. An element of street fashion is the individualized meaning of each statement on clothing, in piercings, tattoos and hair. Designers gravitating toward street fashion run the risk of searching for statements without meaning, and trying to be cool without offending.   It isn’t easy simply because mass manufacturing can not create individual statements – only the broad canvases that allow individuals to individualize.

   Just In XX finds definition in the sheer quantity and diversity of mixed layers, pieces that hang, tie, and combine. I was enthralled by a green knit dress bunched into an obnoxious elaborate floral pattern ending in a gauzy skirting – but it worked.

A faded denim jacket worn by a model over a red baggy pants and qipao neckline had enough fascinating detail to hold attention – but a subtle detail was the arm length of a gauzy over-jacket (was it a second jacket or part of the denim base?) extended past the model’s arms to her knees.

   Street fashion is not generally thought of seriously. Partially because of lack of design and décor quality, but partially because certain marketing arrogance doesn’t go over well on the street. If designers don’t take their market seriously, why should their market take the “designer” seriously? I’m not sure if this is street fashion that will sell, but the amount of thought and detail taken with each item, and each styled outfit is not accidental.

   Reviewing my own photos of the line reminds me that every decade of popular music has never been taken seriously because the belief was the form was too simplistic or didn’t contain real content. Blues, jazz, rock n’ roll, hip-hop, grunge . . . if street fashion has designers like this, it will gain traction.

– Phillip Wong –